Searching the web for my engine codes showed that this module was failing. This is a great way to repair your fuel injection control module and reduce waste and cost.

Installed and worked exactly as it should. Ran roughly first start. Shut off and restarted had ran perfectly since. Been about 6 months no issues yet.

Arrived quickly and as this is the third unit I have installed in my 2005 F350, working great. Engine starts easily now and no shuddering while accelerating when cold. This is the first time using Dorman part. I’m hoping this unit will last. Installation of the FICM unit into the truck is a huge pain. I wish it was mounted somewhere easier to get to.

Over 3 months now and 3ooo+ KMS and still works great in my '07 f350. Old FICM voltage was 38-45 on start and 45-47 running, engine ran rough. New one installed runs and starts at 49-49.5 volts consistently.Installation is not difficult, about 3 hrs start to finish. The hardest part is reattaching the plugs to the FICMVery happy.

Arrived quickly, and as expected. I purchased this as a spare FICM to keep in my truck to ensure I am not left stranded in the event the one installed on the truck decides to unexpectedly quit working.

fonctionne bien

I had a long crank issue with my 6.0 l diesel in my 2005 super duty. I looked at the ficm out put voltage and it was 28 volts cranking and 32 volts while running which was far too low. I followed the easy to understand instructions and got the job done. Afterwards the voltage was 48 to 50 volts running. The engine fires right up now with a very short crank. Watch some you tube videos, have some confidence and patience, a very modestly skilled individual can do this job in a few hours.

It works great 20min takeout an install start up first crank

Part worked perfectly, solved my low FICM Voltage issue on my 6.0L power stroke, easy to install

Update: replacement showed up, I finally got around to installing (the one in the truck hadn’t failed but is only 43v at startup and slowly climbs to 48v so figure I better replace as its on its way out. Installed the 2nd replacement which I ad high hopes as this one was in a sealed pack, not like the first. Low and behold, after startup it was at 40v and only climbed to 43v. Unfortunately to late to return. Will not be buying another one.1st review: Ficm power supply looked like it had been previously installed or used, installed it anyways to try, it didn’t work, produced 30v max. I am guessing someone swapped out there faulty one, returned it, and supplier didn’t check it before putting back on the shelf. I am returning it. Not risking it again and will be getting one not from China.

I installed this in my truck and when it started, my truck ran great. Doing this myself took about 4 hours as I checked other things while doing this. I saved about $600 by doing this myself and found it was not difficult............plus my truck runs like when it was new.

UPDATE (Nov 2022): I now have a 2006 F350 with the 6.0 PowerStroke. My Edge tuner was reading FICM voltage between 42V - 47V. It was especially low in cold weather. This new Dorman power supply is now reading 50V solid. The truck starts easier and runs better too. This is a great price for a common replacement part. Every 6.0 PowerStroke needs a new FICM power supply.Original Review (2015):I rarely take the time to review an item, but I felt compelled to in this case. I am a computer guy, not a diesel mechanic. I'm reasonably intelligent and can read, so when I saw a check engine light on my 2005 6.0L PowerStroke Excursion at only 87k miles, I connected my OBD2 reader. The truck was throwing injector circuit low voltage on all 8 injectors (P0261, P0264, P0267, P0270, P0273, P0276, P0279, P0282). I thought it unlikely that all 8 injectors failed simultaneously, so I consulted The Internet. It seems the Fuel Injector Control Module (FICM) is a very common failure point with these diesel motors (thanks Ford). I've only owned this vehicle for a few months and driven it a dozen times. Good thing I wasn't on a long trip like I have planned later this summer. The vehicle is completely stock.I don't have a ScanGauge2 or another tuner to read the FICM voltage. My OBD2 reader only reads simple PID's like battery voltage, etc. Luckily I found this power board from Dorman. I continue to find many Dorman products that are fantastic OEM replacements (suspension parts mostly). The Internet convinced me that ordering this was cheap insurance and at a great price. I ordered it and had it shipped overnight for $4 (thanks Amazon Prime).Replacing this is incredibly simple. You need an 8mm wrench, a 10mm wrench, a Torx T10, a Torx T20, a pair of pliers, and some common sense. Make sure the truck is cold. Disconnect both batteries at the negative terminal. Open the coolant reservoir (diesel's call it a degas bottle?!?) cap to relieve the pressure. Disconnect the two small hoses to the coolant (degas) reservoir. Take the two bolts out that hold it in place and move it toward the driver's side fender to gain access to the FICM. The two front bolts on the FICM are 10mm, the two rear are 8mm. After removing those, there are 3 clips to the wiring harness on the bottom. Disconnect each one (there are two tabs on each clip, one on each side) and remove the FICM unit. Open the little access window with the T20, and remove the four screws with the T10. Flip it over and remove the other T20 screws holding the shell together. Then just remove the covers and the power board and replace in the opposite order. The hardest part of this job is getting the FICM out of the truck. I had a tough time with the harness connectors. Be sure they are seated and click in place when reinstalling it.When I opened the FICM, I smelled some nasty burning plastic/nylon smell. This was an obvious confirmation to me that the power board had given up. I suppose it is 10 years old, so in computer years this is pretty ancient. Some of the capacitors also didn't look good. This job took me about an hour, though I did watch a YouTube video first. After reinstall all codes were cleared and the truck runs like new. Don't pay $500+ for a rebuilt FICM. You can do this yourself!

Is your 4-pin FICM failing? Then look no further! So many options out there for a replacement FICM, it was hard to choose.You can order from the dealer for $1,000+, have to wait to have it programmed, and probably another $200 in labor.You could do it your self and buy a preprogrammed FICM from an aftermarket seller, at $800+ dollars or you could buy just the half-shell at around $500+ dollars. Now, some of these guys are reputable sellers and have high quality parts (i.e. Bulletproof Diesel, Sinister Diesel, etc.)Myself, I chose the most economical method and bought this Dorman. Now, I have never seen Dorman products and thought "Yea, they have great products!" I find them to simply be OEM replacement. Which in this case, works in my favor. For the little bit of extra work, the $400-$800 savings is well worth it. Simply pull out your failing FICM, separate the shell, pull the old power supply, replace it with the Dorman power supply and put it back together. I have never done this before and it only took me 2 hours. That includes pulling it out of the truck and putting it back in (which is the majority of the time spent). The actual power supply change only took about 15 minutes.The final product fixed all of my problems and out performed the factory FICM. I was able to test it with the new power supply and had readings of 47.5 volts under full load, and up to 48.5 volts at the least amount of load. Ford specs require a minimum of 45 volts. This means the stock FICM could be running inefficiently and Ford would state it's performing fine!Get yours today!!