Genuine GM part and fit perfectly.

Do the job!

OEM part, arrived rapidly and item new from OEM and work as describe

Nothing wrong with my old one except that had lots of the rust and gut and whatnot on the cable that runs below and was very difficult to adjust. There were three bolts holding it in. I think they were all 13 mm. Somewhat hard to access the way that you have to cant your neck. My neck hurt for a couple days after doing this. There is also one bolt behind the driver side fender plastic cover I don't know what you call it that holds the cable down on the outside. I had to cut my old cable off because I guess it was just too tight. After I did that I didn't have any problem putting the new cable in. There's like an additional rubber piece where it slides down the hole and I had to make that a little bigger. After that you just reconnect the cables and you're good to go you don't have to disconnect anything else. I used a big pair of locking pliers to hold the big nut and then a 10 mm ratcheting wrench to adjust the outer piece. Somebody else said they did in 30 minutes it took me a few hours. I was wondering how tight to tighten it. At first I guess I over tightened it because when I tried to push my hand on the pedal it only went down just a little bit and was pretty tight so I figured that was too tight. Then I undid it so that kind of felt tight maybe around halfway and I figured that was good enough.

The part fits perfectly, but this item should be combined with the equalizer nut, I have everything installed but I'm waiting for the nut to complete the repair and I can't use the old one because it's weld/rusted to the old assembly...

So I purchased a hummer h3t and figured this would work as it works for the h3. Process is the same. First time doing something like this so here are the steps for your h3/h3t because I wish I had it.Take off the driver side front wheel well trim/cover/ wheel liner (whatever you want to call the cover behind the front driver wheel). To do that there's clips holding it in place. You can watch youtube on how to remove the clips. You might have to turn the steering wheel to get the wheel out of the way. I took out the first clip nicely and said "screw it" and just broke the rest out. I purchased a pack of 50 for $5 to replace them. I know this is what mechanics do as well. There's also a screw holding the trim. Find it, remove it. Take off the trim.Now you'll see the parking cable going from inside to outside. There's a screw holding the cable. Take out the screw. Mine also had a zip tie holding it snug. pop the zip.The reason for my replacement was mine broke at the equalizer (equalizer is located under the drivers side door under the car.) Since mine was broken I didn't need to unscrew it. If yours isn't broken then unscrew it. Put a vice grip on the flat space where it isn't threaded, put a long socket on the nut (i believe it's a 10mm) and simply use a ratchet to get it off.Remove the negative charge to the battery.(black)drivers side inside, remove the trim that's blocking access to the foot pedal on the left.Unclip the parking brake sensorUnscrew the three bolts holding the e-brake pedal in place.The hood release cable might be in your way. If that's the case there's two screws under the hood release pully that you can remove with a Philips head.Parking release cable. This was a bit tricky for me until I figured it out. Best way I can explain it is bring the pin as far to the right as it can go and simply get the wire to come out of the groove. It's not so hard once you figure it out. To put it back in I did it without looking and it took a few seconds. Granted it took an hour for me to figure it out.Now that nothing is holding it in place, if its snug go to the wheel well and use a mallet (rubber hammer) to push/hammer the rubber seal into the car.Done you successfully removed it. Now replacing it takes way less time. Just run the cable through the hole. Seat everything nicely. Might have to go outside and pull the cable from the outside to get the rubber seal through the hole and snug. Screw the three bolts back. run the cable, screw it back where the rubber asks for it to be screwed to the vehicle. Bring to equalizer. Reuse nut. Mine was rusted to I had to purchase a new nut. Tighten appropriately. Put the zip tie back. Attach parking release tip back (This i did with just feel). Put the Hood Release cable back if you unscrewed it. Put emergence brake warning sensor back on and your done.If I knew what I was doing the whole time it would take about an hour.Happy driving :)

Great OEM part

Great product. Fitted as expected.

Not enough lube on the parts, once lube up, it's OK

Fast delivery, good quality item